1. SHOWER DOORS
2, "HOW TO"  INSTALL
3. TESTIMONIALS
4. DOOR DRAWINGS
5. GALLERY
6. LOCATIONS
7. FINISHES
8. HINGES
9. HANDLES
10. CLAMPS
11. HEADERS
12. U-CHANNEL
13. VINYL SEALS
14. SUPPORT BARS
15. SLIDNG DOORS
16. HYDROSLIDE
17. BI-FOLD DOORS
18. STAINLESS SLIDING
        SHOWER DOOR
19. GLASS TILES
20. STAINLESS         ROLLING HRDW
21. CONTOUR ROLLER
22. DIRECT ROLLERS
23. MORTISE
24. DOUBLE MORTISE
25. STRAP ROLLERS
26. DOUBLE STRAP
27. ROUND BAR
28. POLISHED
29. PARTS
 
30. ALUMINUM
      SLIDING DOORS
31. EPCO
32. CONTRACTORS
WARDROBE
33. COTTAGE
34. HYDROSLIDE
35. GLASS TILES
 
36. GLASS INFO
37. STRENGTH
38. FLAT GLASS
39. BENT GLASS
40. ART GLASS
41. LAMINATED
42. CABINET GLASS
43. COATINGS
 
44. RAILINGS
45. Z-BRACKETS
46. MINI - Z-BRACKETS
47. RSOB BRACKETS
48. STANDOFFS
49. BASE SHOE
50. SS POSTS
51. ALUMINUM
52. CAP RAILS
 
53. STANDOFFS
54.  2" DIA.
55.  1 1/2" DIA
56. 1 1/4" DIA.
57. - 1" DIA.
58. - 3/4" DIA.
59. - 1/2" DIA.
60. SLOTTED
61. MINI SLOTTED
62. - 1 1/4" SQUARE
63. 3/4" SQUARE
64. POLE ADAPT.
 
65. STORE FRONTS
 
66. REPAIR PARTS
          FOR OLDER
          SHOWERS
67. GLASS CLEANER
68. SHELVES AND
          BRACKETS
69. SEALANT

70. TOOLS

71. DISPLAY HARDWARE
72. CABINET HINGES
73. CABINET LOCKS
 
74. F.A.Q.
75. CONTACT
76. LINKS
77. CHARTS
78. CHECKOUT
79. SEARCH
INSTALL USING MINI BRACKETS

MINI BRACKET INSTALLATION
There are at least three basic ways to install the fixed panels.
1. Mini-Brackets
2. Bolt-Through-the-Glass Brackets
3. U-Channel

This guide is about MINI BRACKETS. We are installing a door and panel at 90 degrees for an opening like the one to the right. The information in this guide can help with most door and panel installations.

THE MINIBRACKET
To the Right is a mini bracket. The benefits of using a mini bracket for your shower door is that they are easy to install and require no notching in the glass which reduces your overall cost of the shower. Below is a picture of a standard clamping bracket and you can see the notch. Glass fabrication like that can cost anywhere from 30 to 80 dollars per notch depending on where you get the glass.
MARK CENTERLINE OF GLASS
The first thing you always want to do when you get started is take a good look at your shower. Open to the Install sheet that you have which shows all the glass sizes and clearances and centerline measurements. Now we can layout for the mini brackets.
MARK FOR MINI BRACKETS
Once you get the centerline marked(the same centerline you used to order the glass) you can measure over for your brackets. We usually mark over about 4 -6 inches from the sides of the panel so that it looks symmetrical and is sturdy. The right X in the picture is the centerline and the left X is 4 inches over and in the same line. That will be our first mini-bracket hole.
DRILL HOLES
Now you can drill your first hole. Use the 1/4" drill bit provided or similar. Keep the bit cool by squirting water on it with the squirt bottle that we provide. Try and keep the drill perpendicular to the plane you are drilling. This is a solid base and the screws are only one inch so we drilled about 1 1/2 inches. If you have tile, try and drill just enough to get your plastic anchor in and then the screw might hit wood.
INSTALL ANCHORS
Use the plastic anchors that come in your kit. Install one and tap it in with a mallet. These will seem like a tight fit. That is good.
Between now and screwing down your bracket is when possible tile breakage can occur. It is not common, but it may happen, so be careful not to swing the mallet too hard.
INSTALL CURB MINI BRACKETS
Now we can install the bracket. The mini brackets have 2 holes. Use the center hole to start. If you notice your hole is off a little or need to make an adjustment you can use the offset hole. We like to put a little silicone under the bracket to help keep water out of the hole and out from under the bracket.
CLEAR PLASTIC SETTING BLOCKS
Now insert a setting block that we provide. Look at your layout drawings and you will see clearances underneath your glass. The mini bracket has a 1/16 base so if it says that your clearances are 3/16 you can add a 1/8 setting block. We provide different size setting blocks incase you need to rock the glass up or down on one side. You can also cut the blocks and stack them if you need to.
WALL MOUNTED MINI BRACKET
At this point you can install the wall bracket and the other bottom bracket. You can layout however many brackets you want. We usually try to put 2 on the bottom and one on the wall. The one on the wall should be lined up with the hinges, so measure 8 inches down from where the top of the glass will be and you can make a mark for that one. If you hold a level on the centerline mark and plumb the level, you can make a pencil line for the mini-bracket. You could also use a laser to get a plumb line. Another technique you can use to mark these lines is to set some wood shims on the curb and hold the glass in place. use a small level to make the glass plumb. Then you can run a pencil line using the glass as a straight edge. This way it reduces the chance of messing up the measurements, but adds a little more handling of the glass.

SET PANEL IN OPENING
Now install your shower door side panel. You need 2 people. One person to lift the glass and one person to help guide the bottom of the glass into the brackets. Try and keep two hands on the glass at all times. Don't let the glass hit anything hard and make sure to communicate with your installing partner. Set the glass in an inch or 2 from the wall and then careful slide the glass over making sure that the bottom setting blocks don't slide out with it and make sure not to push the glass to hard into the wall. You can set a wood shim that is provided in between the glass and the vertical wall just in case the glass starts to move too quickly.
The panel is almost done now and we are going to move on to the door. From this point you are just doing a basic single door install and then a little silicone at the end.

You are about 1/3 of the way done !

BEGIN DOOR INSTALLATION
The first thing to do for the shower door install is to clean the area where you are gong to clamp on the hinges. We use acetone or denatured alcohol and a rag or paper towel. Get it squeaky clean because the hinge clamps and rubber gaskets are doing all the holding of the glass.
PUT HINGES ON GLASS
Open the hinges that came with your order. There will be two clamping screws. Make sure to use the correct screw tips. The clamping screws are a #3 phillips usually and the wall mount screws use #2 phillips tip. You don't want to strip any screws. Using the correct gaskets (thick ones for 3/8 glass and thin ones for 1/2" usually, but please check. The gasket specs change per hinge) There should be a piece of paper in with the hinge that has the gasket specs. Go ahead and clamp on the hinge hand tight with a screwdriver making sure to put the clamping screws on the inside of the shower.
SET DOOR IN OPENING
Set wood shims on the curb that should measure 7/16 when you stack them together. You want 7/16 clearance under the glass door for the vinyl bottom sweep. Now with the help your your partner you can set the door in place. Be careful because you will have two glass edges very close to one another at this point.
Adjust the shims until you get the door where you need it. Try and center the door in the opening but most important is to get the hinges on the wall and then we can take some measurements before we mark the holes.
MARK HOLES
Using a tape measure check the reveal of the glass. Meaning: check the distance from the edge of the glass to the outside of your curb. Nudge and bump the glass carefully until the glass door lines up with the vertical edge of the fixed panel. The reveal should be consistent around the entire shower. If everything looks plumb and square you can mark the hinge holes on the wall with a marker or pencil.
DRILL, ANCHOR, INSTALL DOOR
See INSTALLING SINLGE DOOR
Once the holes are marked, pull the shower door out and check your marks. I like to go over the marks with a small X so i can see if I'm wandering as I drill. Drill holes at each mark with the 1/4" tile drill bit and insert the same red anchors, both of which are provided in our installation package. Clean up any anchors that are sticking out with a razor blade(careful). Then set the door back in place on the same wood shims and line up the hinges with the holes in the wall. Screw down the hinges, doing your best not to strip the screws. Push hard enough to keep the tip in the screw. We use impact drivers like the one shown. Good ones are between 200-300 dollars. We also have one from home depot that is nice and was 80 dollars. But any drill will work and you could even do it by hand if you have enormous forearms.

We also provide the 6 inch screw tip shown so you don't scratch your hinge. Also try and keep the drill off the face of the glass because the vibration can leave a mark on the glass if you are resting the drill on the glass while you install screws..
INSTALL HANDLE
Take the handle apart. It should come with an allen wrench. You need that and a screw driver. The handle is basically some washers, a shoulder bolt, and the two sides of the handle. Put the washers together through the glass with the shoulder bolt. Thread on the one side of the handle that has the threaded hole. Tighten that down with a screwdriver and #3 tip. Then slip on the other side of the handle and tighten down the small allen set screws.
BOTTOM VINYL
Now you can slip on the bottom vinyl. It will be a tight fit so start at the hinge side and push up, working your way across the vinyl. Once it is pushed all the way up should should have the vinyl just barely brushing your curb. If you notice a larger gap on one side you can pull down on the vinyl a little to compensate for that.
SIDE VINYL
If you have vinyl, start by cleaning anywhere you are going to install vinyl with acetone or denatured alcohol. Then you can either apply the tape to the vinyl or right to the glass and then apply the vinyl. The picture to the right is an L-shaped vinyl(SDTL) and will act as a door jamb for an out swing shower door. The vinyl will run the full length of the glass. You may want to notch the bottom sweep a little on the edge if you notice it rubbing on the L-Vinyl. You will see what I'm talking about when you operate door with the vinyl installed.
SILICONE EDGES
Next we will silicone. The first thing you want to do is mask off the area that you are going to silicone. Mask the glass and tile with blue tape. Using the silicone that we provide, run a bead inside and outside of the shower. Make sure to get enough in there. If you run it too fast you can get air bubbles. Normal silicone takes a few minutes to get tacky, but you want to move fairly quickly.

SILICONE MINI BRACKET
Firmly run your finger along the inside and outside of the shower. Two people can run their fingers along the silicone simultaneously so they don't push the silicone back and forth and instead create a smooth bead.
Peel the tape and cleanup any excess with your finger and a razor blade. Try not to get any on the glass. Also try not to touch the silicone too much. Most likely, the more you touch it the worse it will look. Finally run a small amount of silicone around the perimeter of the mini brackets to keep any water from seeping in anywhere.

Congratulations!
You just completed your frameless shower door.. Just wait 24 hours for the silicone to completely cure and then you can take a shower.
Notes: If you need vinyl in between the door and wall you can use the bulb seal(SDTB) and the double face tape. Remember to clean the glass surface before applying the tape.
If your door seems to be going in to far or not closing enough, the hinges have a 5 degree offset that you can set. If you notice that the hinge is slipping after a few days Here is a Fix
We have several different types of vinyl so if you finish installing and you find out your gaps are a little bigger than expected, we have a vinyl that can seal it up. Just give us a call (toll free 866-370-0006)or shoot us an e-mail. Also if you start installing and run into a problem fell free to call in and ask us for some advice.
All of the parts that come in the installation pack are available on our online store. Lots of our hardware comes from CR Laurence company and if you find anything on their web site that you want we can order it for you. Just get the part number and give us a call or e-mail us.

SILICONING THE CORNER This shower has no corner to silicone, but most do.

 


 
     
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