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INSTALL
DOOR - PANEL - END PANEL
You should also
view the Simple
door installation Page for more tips and tricks because
every little bit helps.These are installation
instructions for a Door Panel-End-Panel. Of course
there will be lots of variations depending on how your fixed
panel is fastened to the wall, and the layout of your bathroom,
but this should give you a good idea of how to go about the
installation.
You will need:
Several of the
items needed for the installation are provided with your order.
Ask about what comes with your order and if you need anything
extra we can provide it. (except maybe the friend)
Check
through all your hardware
to make sure you have everything.
For every Door-Panel-End-Panel you should have at least
the following: your glass, hinges for the door, a handle of some sort, brackets or U-Channel for the fixed panels
and vinyl of some sort, depending on the situation. If you
don't have vinyl that is OK, it can be ordered after the
installation is complete and the shower might end up not
needing it at all.
Visualize
the shower.
Make sure that you know what you are trying
to build and have a good idea what it is going to look like. There are several pictures of sample doors
on our website www.wilsonglass.com. You can check out our Galleries or our Testimonials for more pics.
Set the fixed panels in place.
There is two basic
ways to fasten fixed panels. With U-Channel or with
brackets.
Using U-Channel.
Set the U-Channel in place.
You can hold it down with small pieces of blue
tape and put ¼ inch setting blocks inside the
U-Channel at each end to support the glass. Set
the end panel in the U-Channel and slide it into
place. Set the in-line panel in place and line
it up with the end-panel. If you are using a sleeve-over
top clamp(SOGC90) attach it to the top of the
glass and tighten down the set screws. If you
don't have one blue tape will suffice.
Using brackets.
Place wood shims or equivalent
under where the glass will be placed and start
by placing the end panel in position. Then place
the in-line panel in position and line it up with
the end panel. If you are using a sleeve-over
top clamp(SOGC90) attach it to the top of the
glass and tighten down the set screws. If you
don't have one blue tape will suffice. |
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Measure and mark.
With the glass panels in position
measure the opening for your door. You should have
at least an opening that is the width of the door
plus 3/8" - 7/16" overall. So if your door is 28 inches
your opening should be 28 7/16". Also mark where the
U-Channel or brackets will go with a pencil and mark
where you need to cut your U-Channel if you need to
at all. If the panels line up and you've marked everything
possible and your door opening is ok then you are
ready to take the glass back out and move on to the
next step. |
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Install the fasteners for the fixed panels.
Using U-Channel
Hold the U-Channel back
in place lining it up with the marks that you
drew in step 4. Mark the holes through the U-Channel
while holding it in place. Then you can remove
the U-Channel and drill the marked holes and insert
a plastic anchor. Run a small bead of silicone
on the back of the U-Channel that will be directly
touching the wall and replace the U-Channel and
screw it down with the stainless steel screws
provided. Wipe up any excess silicone. You need
to screw down the vertical pieces of U-Channel
but might not need to screw down the horizontal
ones. The silicone alone should be substantial.
Using Brackets.
Using the marks you made
in step 4, line up your brackets and mark the
screw holes. Be careful to think about where the
glass edge will be when marking the holes. Drill
the holes, insert the anchors and screw down the
bracket. Depending on which type of bracket you
may have to open the bracket first to reveal the
screw boss hidden inside the bracket plates. |


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Install the fixed Panels.
Using U-Channel Run a small bead of silicone
inside the U-Channel on the inside wall of the
channel. Set your plastic blocks in the U-Channel
that you had in when you test fit the glass. Then
set in the end-panel in place. Next set the in-line
panel in place and line it up with the end of
the end panel. If you have a "sleeve over to clamp"
(SOGC90) install that now. Re-measure that you
have enough room for your door and adjust if necessary.
Using Brackets. Lay some shims where the
glass will rest so that the glass doesn't touch
the tile. Set the end panel in place and fasten
the plates on the bracket. The end panel should
now be secure. Note: if you are using mini-brackets
you will not have to tighten down anything, but
the glass should be secure in the mini-brackets
Then line up the in-line panel and tighten down
those brackets and the SOGC90 if you have one.
Measure to make sure that you still have enough
room for your door and readjust your shims so
that they are hidden under the edge of the glass. |
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Mask where you are going to silicone with blue tape.
This step is optional but it makes cleanup a lot
easier. For the best results, mask the wall and
glass about 1/8" from the edge of the glass so that
you can leave a nice smooth bead and you don't have
extra smeared all over. Then you are ready to silicone,
but wait until you are done with the door so you
don't bump into it or get dust in the silicone.
SILICONING THE CORNER |
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Hang
the door.
There are instructions on hanging the door
on the single
door installation page, but this will explain it as
well. First, fasten the hinges on the glass door using the correct gaskets. Put some wood
shims where the door will rest that should be about 7/16"
thick. Set the door on the shims and take a look at how
the door lines up with the fixed panels. Adjust the door
with the shims until the glass lines up with the top of
the fixed panel and is in the same plane as the in-line
panel. Then mark the holes through the hinges for the fastening
screws. Pull the door out and drill the holes with the ¼
inch tile drill bit and insert the anchors. Put the door
back in position and screw down the hinges with the supplied
hinge screws. Tighten down the screws that clamp the glass
in place as tight as you can without stripping the screws.
Note: I have yet to strip a screw in a hinge and I use 2
hands to torque it down, but be careful. Then you can pull
out the wood shims and swing the door to make sure that
the clearances are OK If the door need to be adjusted you
can loosed the clamping screws and slide the door a little. |
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Silicone.
Using a caulking gun and the clear silicone
run a bead down the inside and out side of the seam
where the glass(or U-Channel) meet your wall. Then
run your finger down the bead pushing firmly in one
smooth stroke. Do that to both sides and then pull
the tape. You have time for little touch ups after
that, but the more you touch it the more messed up
it will get. If you have a large gap to fill use the
same technique, but have your friend run their finger
down the outside at the same time you run your finger
down the inside, that way the silicone will not push
back and forth.
SILICONING THE CORNER |
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Install any vinyl you have.
Clean the edge of
the glass where you are going to place U-Channel with
alcohol, acetone or MEK Then lay a strip of the high
bond double face tape along the edge. Peel off the
plastic backing and apply the vinyl. You will have
to cut the end of the vinyl off with a razorblade
to fit your glass. Slip the bottom wipe over the glass
edge on the bottom of your door. It should just sweep
your curb enough to create a seal. If it is not touching
then you can pull the vinyl sweep down a little or
adjust your door and if it is rubbing too hard you
can adjust your door or wait for the sweep to wear
out a little bit. |
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Pat
your self on the back
because you have successfully
completed your own frameless heavy glass euro-style shower
door and saved tons of money in the process. Now you can
take a shower(and probably should after all that work) in
your new shower, but wait at least 24 hours for the silicone
to dry. We are glad to give over the phone support anytime
8-5 on weekdays and 10-2 on Saturday Pacific time. 510-843-3334. |

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