1. SHOWER DOORS
2, "HOW TO"  INSTALL
3. TESTIMONIALS
4. DOOR DRAWINGS
5. GALLERY
6. LOCATIONS
7. FINISHES
8. HINGES
9. HANDLES
10. CLAMPS
11. HEADERS
12. U-CHANNEL
13. VINYL SEALS
14. SUPPORT BARS
15. SLIDNG DOORS
16. HYDROSLIDE
17. BI-FOLD DOORS
18. STAINLESS SLIDING
        SHOWER DOOR
19. GLASS TILES
20. STAINLESS         ROLLING HRDW
21. CONTOUR ROLLER
22. DIRECT ROLLERS
23. MORTISE
24. DOUBLE MORTISE
25. STRAP ROLLERS
26. DOUBLE STRAP
27. ROUND BAR
28. POLISHED
29. PARTS
 
30. ALUMINUM
      SLIDING DOORS
31. EPCO
32. CONTRACTORS
WARDROBE
33. COTTAGE
34. HYDROSLIDE
35. GLASS TILES
 
36. GLASS INFO
37. STRENGTH
38. FLAT GLASS
39. BENT GLASS
40. ART GLASS
41. LAMINATED
42. CABINET GLASS
43. COATINGS
 
44. RAILINGS
45. Z-BRACKETS
46. MINI - Z-BRACKETS
47. RSOB BRACKETS
48. STANDOFFS
49. BASE SHOE
50. SS POSTS
51. ALUMINUM
52. CAP RAILS
 
53. STANDOFFS
54.  2" DIA.
55.  1 1/2" DIA
56. 1 1/4" DIA.
57. - 1" DIA.
58. - 3/4" DIA.
59. - 1/2" DIA.
60. SLOTTED
61. MINI SLOTTED
62. - 1 1/4" SQUARE
63. 3/4" SQUARE
64. POLE ADAPT.
 
65. STORE FRONTS
 
66. REPAIR PARTS
          FOR OLDER
          SHOWERS
67. GLASS CLEANER
68. SHELVES AND
          BRACKETS
69. SEALANT

70. TOOLS

71. DISPLAY HARDWARE
72. CABINET HINGES
73. CABINET LOCKS
 
74. F.A.Q.
75. CONTACT
76. LINKS
77. CHARTS
78. CHECKOUT
79. SEARCH
INSTALL
DOOR - PANEL - END PANEL

You should also view the Simple door installation Page for more tips and tricks because every little bit helps.These are installation instructions for a Door Panel-End-Panel. Of course there will be lots of variations depending on how your fixed panel is fastened to the wall, and the layout of your bathroom, but this should give you a good idea of how to go about the installation.

You will need:


Drill
Not Included

Tile Drill Bit
Included

Caulking Gun
Not Included

#3 Phillips and
Long #2 Phillips
Included

 


Clear Plastic Setting Blocks
Included


Wood Shims
Included

Clear Mildew Resistant Silicone
Included
Your Hardware and Glass
Included

A Friend to help you
Not Included

Several of the items needed for the installation are provided with your order. Ask about what comes with your order and if you need anything extra we can provide it. (except maybe the friend)

Check through all your hardware
to make sure you have everything. For every Door-Panel-End-Panel you should have at least the following: your glass, hinges for the door, a handle of some sort, brackets or U-Channel for the fixed panels and vinyl of some sort, depending on the situation. If you don't have vinyl that is OK, it can be ordered after the installation is complete and the shower might end up not needing it at all.

Visualize the shower.
Make sure that you know what you are trying to build and have a good idea what it is going to look like. There are several pictures of sample doors on our website www.wilsonglass.com. You can check out our Galleries or our Testimonials for more pics.

Set the fixed panels in place.
There is two basic ways to fasten fixed panels. With U-Channel or with brackets.

Using U-Channel.
Set the U-Channel in place. You can hold it down with small pieces of blue tape and put ¼ inch setting blocks inside the U-Channel at each end to support the glass. Set the end panel in the U-Channel and slide it into place. Set the in-line panel in place and line it up with the end-panel. If you are using a sleeve-over top clamp(SOGC90) attach it to the top of the glass and tighten down the set screws. If you don't have one blue tape will suffice.

Using brackets.
Place wood shims or equivalent under where the glass will be placed and start by placing the end panel in position. Then place the in-line panel in position and line it up with the end panel. If you are using a sleeve-over top clamp(SOGC90) attach it to the top of the glass and tighten down the set screws. If you don't have one blue tape will suffice.

Measure and mark.
With the glass panels in position measure the opening for your door. You should have at least an opening that is the width of the door plus 3/8" - 7/16" overall. So if your door is 28 inches your opening should be 28 7/16". Also mark where the U-Channel or brackets will go with a pencil and mark where you need to cut your U-Channel if you need to at all. If the panels line up and you've marked everything possible and your door opening is ok then you are ready to take the glass back out and move on to the next step.  

Install the fasteners for the fixed panels.

Using U-Channel
Hold the U-Channel back in place lining it up with the marks that you drew in step 4. Mark the holes through the U-Channel while holding it in place. Then you can remove the U-Channel and drill the marked holes and insert a plastic anchor. Run a small bead of silicone on the back of the U-Channel that will be directly touching the wall and replace the U-Channel and screw it down with the stainless steel screws provided. Wipe up any excess silicone. You need to screw down the vertical pieces of U-Channel but might not need to screw down the horizontal ones. The silicone alone should be substantial.

Using Brackets.
Using the marks you made in step 4, line up your brackets and mark the screw holes. Be careful to think about where the glass edge will be when marking the holes. Drill the holes, insert the anchors and screw down the bracket. Depending on which type of bracket you may have to open the bracket first to reveal the screw boss hidden inside the bracket plates.

Install the fixed Panels.

Using U-Channel Run a small bead of silicone inside the U-Channel on the inside wall of the channel. Set your plastic blocks in the U-Channel that you had in when you test fit the glass. Then set in the end-panel in place. Next set the in-line panel in place and line it up with the end of the end panel. If you have a "sleeve over to clamp" (SOGC90) install that now. Re-measure that you have enough room for your door and adjust if necessary.

Using Brackets. Lay some shims where the glass will rest so that the glass doesn't touch the tile. Set the end panel in place and fasten the plates on the bracket. The end panel should now be secure. Note: if you are using mini-brackets you will not have to tighten down anything, but the glass should be secure in the mini-brackets Then line up the in-line panel and tighten down those brackets and the SOGC90 if you have one. Measure to make sure that you still have enough room for your door and readjust your shims so that they are hidden under the edge of the glass.

Mask where you are going to silicone with blue tape.
This step is optional but it makes cleanup a lot easier. For the best results, mask the wall and glass about 1/8" from the edge of the glass so that you can leave a nice smooth bead and you don't have extra smeared all over. Then you are ready to silicone, but wait until you are done with the door so you don't bump into it or get dust in the silicone.

SILICONING THE CORNER

Hang the door.
There are instructions on hanging the door on the single door installation page, but this will explain it as well. First, fasten the hinges on the glass door using the correct gaskets. Put some wood shims where the door will rest that should be about 7/16" thick. Set the door on the shims and take a look at how the door lines up with the fixed panels. Adjust the door with the shims until the glass lines up with the top of the fixed panel and is in the same plane as the in-line panel. Then mark the holes through the hinges for the fastening screws. Pull the door out and drill the holes with the ¼ inch tile drill bit and insert the anchors. Put the door back in position and screw down the hinges with the supplied hinge screws. Tighten down the screws that clamp the glass in place as tight as you can without stripping the screws. Note: I have yet to strip a screw in a hinge and I use 2 hands to torque it down, but be careful. Then you can pull out the wood shims and swing the door to make sure that the clearances are OK If the door need to be adjusted you can loosed the clamping screws and slide the door a little.

Silicone.
Using a caulking gun and the clear silicone run a bead down the inside and out side of the seam where the glass(or U-Channel) meet your wall. Then run your finger down the bead pushing firmly in one smooth stroke. Do that to both sides and then pull the tape. You have time for little touch ups after that, but the more you touch it the more messed up it will get. If you have a large gap to fill use the same technique, but have your friend run their finger down the outside at the same time you run your finger down the inside, that way the silicone will not push back and forth.

SILICONING THE CORNER

Install any vinyl you have.
Clean the edge of the glass where you are going to place U-Channel with alcohol, acetone or MEK Then lay a strip of the high bond double face tape along the edge. Peel off the plastic backing and apply the vinyl. You will have to cut the end of the vinyl off with a razorblade to fit your glass. Slip the bottom wipe over the glass edge on the bottom of your door. It should just sweep your curb enough to create a seal. If it is not touching then you can pull the vinyl sweep down a little or adjust your door and if it is rubbing too hard you can adjust your door or wait for the sweep to wear out a little bit.  
Pat your self on the back
because you have successfully completed your own frameless heavy glass euro-style shower door and saved tons of money in the process. Now you can take a shower(and probably should after all that work) in your new shower, but wait at least 24 hours for the silicone to dry. We are glad to give over the phone support anytime 8-5 on weekdays and 10-2 on Saturday Pacific time. 510-843-3334.  

BEFORE

AFTER


 
     
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