Wilson Glass

Let's consider how NOT to make the knee walls first.
Many times people go ahead and make the knee wall with squared off ends as shown at right. Obviously, if you use a header and pivot, the door won't open at all.

So you have to use a Glass to Glass 135° Hinge on the top and adjustable wall mount hinge on the knee wall near the bottom of the door. This means the panel on top of the kneewall that holds the hinge has to stick 9/16" as shown. Below the top panel this space will be empty and the door may leak through that gap.

On the Handle side, the door should probably be mitered and the fixed panel flat polished, as shown.

The Fixed panels can be centerline of the kneewall but then the door will no be centerline of the curb.

You will need to make sure there is room for the interior handle. If the kneewall is 6" thick, then the handle might want to be 5" in from the edge of the door so that there will be 2 3/4" between handle and the corner of the kneewall.

If your door is wide enough, you can put fixed panels on each side and this will allow you to use a header and pivots. However there is still the problem of the miter at the corner wants to be 22 1/2° but the end of the kneewall is not, so the full hieght fixed panel will have to be awkward at either the top or the bottom half.

The correct way to build the kneewall shown at left.

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